Convert to nylon strings

[B. Williams]

What-all do I need to convert from steel strings to nylon? Bridge? A different tailpiece? The banjo is the

Rover RB-110 Openback

Details

11" diameter multi-ply rim with simple brass hoop tone ring
Mahogany neck with double-cut peghead and adjustable truss rod
~26-3/8" scale
Dot inlaid rosewood fretboard
Planetary tuners, geared 5th peg
Waverly style tailpiece
24 tension hooks
Adjustable rim rod
Armrest
Frosted white head
Ebony-capped maple bridge 5/8"

Neck is 1 1/4" wide at nut and 1 7/8 at base

[Rob MacKillop]

On the other hand...perhaps this is affordable: https://bernunzio.com/product/unmarked-5-string-openback-25111/  - on second looks it has steel strings, but you could ask them to convert it. They also have other nylon strung banjos at low prices. 

[thereallyniceman]

If you "need" to file bridge grooves, here is a photo of an original Morley bridge fitted on my Weaver banjo.

See how the string sits1/2 in the groove and 1/2 above it.

B. Williams said:

Thanks. I will look for that little-file array at the local hardware store. Is the Morley bridge available in USA? Currencies and tariffs are daunting to me. The tailpiece in your pic looks like my Waverly, and one of your correspondents said he has never had a problem with it for many years. Apparently, not many have had a problem with bridges, and I assume lots of players have converted to nylon strings. I hope I eventually find the "right" one.

thereallyniceman said:

If you find that the nylon strings jump out of the bridge the grooves may well be too narrow. A CE Morley bridge should be fine, but if this happens with ANY bridge you can file the grooves a little deeper using really inexpensive files normally used as welding torch tip cleaners.

Remember that the string should sit in the bridge groove with 1/2  of the string in the groove and 1/2 above the groove.

These tip cleaner files are available for a song on Ebay, £2 maximum for a set. They can also be used to widen the nut grooves if the strings jam.

[Trapdoor2]

LOLOL. I've cut many, many bridge slots with an Xacto knife...a V groove with a little judicious scraping. I didn't own proper fret files until about 5 yrs ago. I use the welding tip cleaners for very fine adjustments...my set does not cut maple worth a hoot. Works a bit better on nut notches.

I can cut fancy "Luthier" notches, I even have a graduated set of saws to start the grooves...but I'm in the 'don't fix what ain't broke' category.

I also cannot use the "1/2 in-1/2 out" notch depth. I will pop either the 1st or 5th out if their groove (sometimes both) when playing. I switched to having the string completely buried in the groove. I really don't worry how deep. As long as it doesn't pop out, I'm done.

Nylon is very forgiving...and I really like a V groove because of that. With a V groove, you don't have to worry so much about the width of the slot, just that the bottom is reasonably smooth. 

[B. Williams]

Looks like this is what I will have to try until I have a shopping list long enough to send an order to Joel Hooks. Thanks for the advice.

Trapdoor2 said:

LOLOL. I've cut many, many bridge slots with an Xacto knife...a V groove with a little judicious scraping. I didn't own proper fret files until about 5 yrs ago. I use the welding tip cleaners for very fine adjustments...my set does not cut maple worth a hoot. Works a bit better on nut notches.

I can cut fancy "Luthier" notches, I even have a graduated set of saws to start the grooves...but I'm in the 'don't fix what ain't broke' category.

I also cannot use the "1/2 in-1/2 out" notch depth. I will pop either the 1st or 5th out if their groove (sometimes both) when playing. I switched to having the string completely buried in the groove. I really don't worry how deep. As long as it doesn't pop out, I'm done.

Nylon is very forgiving...and I really like a V groove because of that. With a V groove, you don't have to worry so much about the width of the slot, just that the bottom is reasonably smooth. 

[Trapdoor2]

A couple of additional notes: With an ebony topped bridge that is already cut for steel, I don't "cut", I sort of scrape to widen the grooves. I may cut a little to get more depth but esp once I have the width, I just scrape from side to side in the groove to get the bottom reasonably smooth. I have to use magnification, so one of those magnifiers you wear like a hat or visor is a real blessing.

For the thinner strings, I often simply just worry my way down to the bottom and call it a day. If you have access to the welding tip cleaners, they do a great job on ebony to help smooth the bottom of the V. Fine grade sandpaper (like 400grit) can be folded (use the fold) to do the same thing.

Don't worry...take it slow.

B. Williams said:

Looks like this is what I will have to try until I have a shopping list long enough to send an order to Joel Hooks. Thanks for the advice.

Trapdoor2 said:

LOLOL. I've cut many, many bridge slots with an Xacto knife...a V groove with a little judicious scraping.

[Joel Hooks]

Jody, I did not mean offence, and I certainly appreciate fine craftsmanship.  I just think that in the case of banjo bridges it is wasted.

A "historical" bridge is 2mm or less thick at the top, not a lot of room to worry about notch angles and break points. 

I could see how a much thinner wire sting passing over a thicker bridge would be effected. I can also see how bowed violin family instruments would be impacted by this.

Having studied boxes of antique bridges, used and unused, they all have two things in common-- deep notches that bury the strings at or below the top of the bridge, and notches angled in towards the third strings notch (that being at a 90 degree).

SSS claimed that they used a gang saw (with angled blades) to cut the notches across the milled block before the individual bridges were sliced off.

I think there is a lot of fussing going on that is not necessary. 

I got an email one time asking me for a custom sized bridge and they wanted me to measure to the bottom of the string notch to a thousandth inch size.  I recommended that they find someone else.

[Jody Stecher]

Thanks Joel.  Paul passed away just weeks ago so I have lost a very dear friend and I am sensitive and defensive about him.

Joel Hooks said:

Jody, I did not mean offence, and I certainly appreciate fine craftsmanship.  I just think that in the case of banjo bridges it is wasted.

A "historical" bridge is 2mm or less thick at the top, not a lot of room to worry about notch angles and break points. 

I could see how a much thinner wire sting passing over a thicker bridge would be effected. I can also see how bowed violin family instruments would be impacted by this.

Having studied boxes of antique bridges, used and unused, they all have two things in common-- deep notches that bury the strings at or below the top of the bridge, and notches angled in towards the third strings notch (that being at a 90 degree).

SSS claimed that they used a gang saw (with angled blades) to cut the notches across the milled block before the individual bridges were sliced off.

I think there is a lot of fussing going on that is not necessary. 

I got an email one time asking me for a custom sized bridge and they wanted me to measure to the bottom of the string notch to a thousandth inch size.  I recommended that they find someone else.