I'm aware that a few classic style players used Gibsons in the past, and I'm wondering if anyone here has tried it with a 40-hole archtop or a flathead? It'd be interesting to see how these sound with nylon or gut and a period bridge.

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I see them now, Marc, and your posts, Jody and Marc Trapdoor....

NICE pics, Marc D, and great updates.

Shame about the Robinson, though.....Gad and AC would roll over in their graves if they knew.....

I restarted my computer and now everything works on the site again. Try that, Chris… maybe...

Trapdoor2 said:

I dunno, I have a very picky connection here at work and I've been able to see the pix all morning...and am looking at them right now.

There is something about banjo players named "Marc"...three of my favorite players! ;-)

oh.. never mind, you got it all back already….

Jody Stecher said:

I restarted my computer and now everything works on the site again. Try that, Chris… maybe...

Trapdoor2 said:

I dunno, I have a very picky connection here at work and I've been able to see the pix all morning...and am looking at them right now.

There is something about banjo players named "Marc"...three of my favorite players! ;-)

Restart?

I can't find the pull rope on this thing....where is it?  Do I have to choke it to restart it if it's been just shut down and it's still warm, or just put the throttle at idle?

your computer should have a restart option on the start menu.  On a PC there should be a little arrow beside the words Shut Down. If you click on it some options appear. one of these is Restart. 

Chris Cioffi said:

Restart?

I can't find the pull rope on this thing....where is it?  Do I have to choke it to restart it if it's been just shut down and it's still warm, or just put the throttle at idle?

Depends on your computer, Chris. Most of the new ones are injected and don't have a choke. Older models may have a tickler-carb and you need to tickle it to get fuel into the float-bowl.

If you're having trouble getting it restarted when warm, an easy thing to check is the gas-cap. I've had the vent get plugged and not allow gas to flow to the carb...just open the cap and relieve the vacuum.

Unless it is an Apple. Those things seem to work on FM. ;-)

 

Hi Chris,

Take no notice of Marc, it sounds like he has one of those new fangled reckoning machines.

You probably have a computer like mine, so simply open the flap at the front and throw another log in, but don't forget to top up the water reservoir to ensure a good head of steam.

That should fix it.

I upgraded from the Difference Engine a few years back. Babbington stopped putting out driver updates, so I had to send it to the Knackers. 

I straightened Jody out by email that I coudln't find the pull rope becuase as Jody advised me, my color box machine doesn't have one.

Marc, it's not gas powered after all, but you're tips are spot on for a petrol powered abucus for sure, and I've printed them out in case my next one is fossil fuel.

However, the first time I kick started a Triumph motorcylce, the owner told me how tricky theyare to start..."have to tickle the carbs just so...takes experience.....then kick it like hell...it'll take you 2 or 3 kicks if you don't flood it your first time.

One kick and I left his surprised face in the dust.

Ian, you are quite right, since mine seems to be one of the "fired" models.....

Do you find Oak or some other wood to be best?

I think this is what's been wrong all along with my computuer troubles....out of wood.

Ian, I have your email....I am responding soon...I'll explain some then....thank you for that for sure.

Gotta go split some wood......but I'm going to run through St. Louis Tickle again first.

A customer just dropped off an old Granada a few minutes ago...a raised head.  Maybe it will have nylguts on it in the next couple months...if so, I'll report back....

(Do I get points for at least trying to sneak an on topic comment into one of my recent posts on this thread?)

I'll be trying out nylons on my 40-hole archtop once it gets here as well.  I also ordered a Tone Ring Mate, which is a drop-in flathead ring that incorporates original archtop rings (no need to remove them).  I may try it both ways to see how it sounds.  In other news I just learned that Paul Cadwell used to play a nylon-strung Mastertone in addition to his flush fret.  

Love to have a copy of the Cadwell/Mastertone info, John.....

Did you buy Mike's PB-3?

Do yourself a favor and cancel the order on the tone ring mate...waste of brass AND perfectly good money.....the one that arrived in the 20's Granada today is going in the garbage as soon as I get to work on the banjo......

It not only is a desicration, it makes perfectly good raised heads sound .....bad and NOT like flatheads.

Just trying to save you some time and money now......

The designers of those banjos knew more about their own designs than the people who try to "improve" them now......

A guy in this thread remembers Paul playing a Gibson.  You might want to reach out to him.

http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/232640

Re the Tone Ring Mate:  The ones I've heard have been OK.  They won't make your banjo sound like a real flathead, but they do increase the bass response and make for nicely balanced strings.  If I like the PB-3 (it's Mike's) as an archtop I'll keep it that way, but more often than not I've not liked archtops for classic style (the smaller resonating area of the head makes for too little bass response).  That said, there are a few I've liked a lot.  By the way, I got the TRM used for a good deal.  I wouldn't dream of spending $300 on one.

Edit:  I should clarify that I really like archtops with steel strings.  When I say I've disliked more than not, I mean with nylon.  That said, I've never tried a Gibson so who knows what I'll think.

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